#100 self cocking pistol crossbow full#

Just as guys have said it.it's a combination and balance of a bunch of things.but hold on a sec.you're building a pistol bow, right? How accurately CAN one shoot off hand?ĭon't want a Full Stock? ~ do a Half Stock ( like in the pic below.goes over the shoulder and you shoot it like a small bazooka ).a little more control never hurt and technically it's still a pistol. Gnome did a build where he stacked these little prods to increase the draw weight you're also after in a pistol. It IS a steel prod, BUT it has a clever design ( 'v' shaped cross section) that makes it more stiff compared the limb with a flat profile of the same mass. Masochism?.dust in the nose?.sounds like a high-school girl's bathroom. Look at a table of Janka Hardness values to get an idea of wood strengths compared to woods you may already know about like Oak, Maple, etc.Īccuracy comes from many factors including the trigger mechanism, bolts used, track or bolt retaining system, shooter skill. Certainly not as heavy as Jatoba, Ipe, Ebony or Lignum Vitae. Some of us are developing 'real' pistol-sized prods - 10' to 12' - with serious draw weights in the 50-100# class that will fit on real pistol-sized tillers under a foot in length.įor the tiller there are any number of good 'exotic' hardwoods like Satinwood (which the Aussies call Silk Oak), Brazilian Walnut, and Zebrawood which are reasonably light and strong. A simple foot loop cord (which can double as a carry sling) will do the job perfectly well. And for 120# draw you really don't need the complications of crank cocking. That length of prod I personally consider more of a carbine than a pistol, but that's neither here nor there.Īn 18' prod does not have anything like a 12' draw. You can buy 120# fiberglass replacement prods through Ebay for under $50. I haven't educated myself fully about the mechanics portion yet, but I shall soon, and I don't foresee it being a large problem.Ĭommercial crossbow pistols generally have a 17' or 18' prod, and the tillers are under 18' (and generally under 16') from bow to butt. So these are the main problems I've run across thus far into the planning stage. I'd like a recurve prod that's strong (100+ lbs.), durable, and doesn't look awful. What material should the prod be made from? I've read that spring steel can endure a lot of stress and is fairly cheap and available. As an alternative to carbon fiber, what kind of wood, do you think, would be best to work with? I'd prefer a lightweight but strong wood that looks moderately presentable. Carbon fiber is lightweight and more durable (I think, though I might be wrong) than wood. One of the problems I've run into is where exactly to stick the 8-inch crank on a hand crossbow that likely won't surpass 24 inches in length.Īnother issue is the material I should make it from. Obviously, this isn't really feasible, but with 7 turns (not TOO terrible), I could decrease the radius to ~4.2 inches. At 533.76 Newtons of force, and with a draw length of one foot, and an average torque exerted by my arm of 220 Newtons (50 pounds), the ideal radius of the crank would be 29.1 inches. I want my bows to each have a crank that automatically cocks the string after only one turn. draw strength exerts a tension force of 533.76 Newtons. I've done a few calculations and determined that a prod with 120 lbs.

I have little to no idea what I'm doing, and some help would be nice I've read that, generally, pistol crossbows are neither. I want to build a pair of pistol crossbows, but I want them to be powerful and at least decently accurate. New to crossbow building, know nothing about it, thought it would be interesting to give it a go ^.^ » need help contacting le musee Dauphinois Grenoble » Skane/Lillohus lockbow information needed » 400lb Windlass crossbow bolts weight and accuracy shooting high. » prod angle, and lever trigger for sale anyone? » Questions around heavy crossbow lath buildin » Colletiere a Charavines continuing experiment » 12th Century Chinese Crossbow Chronographed